I have removed the pan and replaced rod bearings at the track. Some of the
bolts are almost impossible to reach, around the front corners were the worst.
To remove the pan the engine must be jacked up, motormounts loose and oil pump
pickup tube must be removed. I cut down a big wrench, 1 1/8: maybe, to reach
inside the loosened pan and unscrew the tube. It's cramped, messy and
dangerous in my opinion but it can be done in an emergency. At home, I'd pull
the engine...
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Schirano via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>; Larry Young <cartravel at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 11:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs
Thanks everyone so far, my thoughts and tentative plans:
weld another bung on the valve cover for venting, was a suspect problem
leak down, good idea, motor build isn't that old, but never know
bell housing clearance, that's a SOB when I R&R the engine to begin with. if I
do a lift I will remove the throttle linkage, that will give me at last a
little room. I think I have a cable linkage in a box of spares that I have been
wanting to install.
pan dimpling, that pan just went on a year ago and I angle ground dressed it,
so should have been pretty good.
sealing block, agreed, next time that motor is out it get's a steel one.
Thanks guys
Brian
26A GT6+, 28 TR6
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell
BSchirano at yahoo.com
On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 6:50:02 PM GMT+1, Larry
Young <cartravel at yahoo.com> wrote:
I have found that leaks are often caused by a PO-gorilla has over tightened and
made a dimple at the holes. You can see this clearly with a belt sander. I
hammer the dimples down until the belt sander contacts everywhere. This applies
to front covers and pans.
- Larry
Sent by big thumbs on tiny screen.
On Jan 21, 2018, at 10:23 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by
the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to
pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is
between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the
lift.
Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this
cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not
enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting
before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this
direction that it didn?t work.
If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the
issue.
On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
OK GT6 guys...
Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling
the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will
be the problem.
Is a partial lift possible to do this?
It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing
chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that).
2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from
pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around
this problem short term that way?
Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter
breaks early March
Thanks
Brian
26A GT6+, 28 TR6
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell
BSchirano at yahoo.com
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