I'm 'old fashioned' when it comes to removing brake fluif and if you seek to
purge the system, use compressed air! Ensure you don't spray old fluif on
any paintwork (unless you like repainting?) and then strip out the front
calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Admit it takes more time to do it this
way but at least you hopefully won't have any 'contaminating' residues. This
is the process I adopted together with replacing quite a large number of
seals.
Jonmac
-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Creig
Houghtaling
Sent: 29 March 2016 03:33
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 brake master cylinder
All good information. I will probably remove each caliper and wheel
cylinder and pour out the fluid. But now that I know that someone has not
had a bad experience just pushing it out. I won't have any concern about any
residual film on interior surfaces.
Thanks All!
________________________________________
> That was going to be my next question. About how carefully one had to
> drain the dot 4 when installing dot 5. It sounds like I can put in my
> fresh MC, fill it with silicone, then bleed each brake till I see
> purple fluid.
Another contested question. My experience is as Paul said, just "bleeding
through" will not remove all of the old brake fluid from the system.
However, I saw no ill effects from the small pockets of old fluid left over.
The DOT 5 will not mix with the old fluid, and is slightly less dense, so
you get little pockets of fluid in corners that don't get used (like the
base of the rear slave cylinders). The DOT 5 also surrounds it, so it can't
promote corrosion (and I assume not absorb water or salt).
Main disadvantage seems to be that the remaining DOT 3/4 will suck all the
purple dye out of the DOT 5.
Randall
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