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That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael said, I don't believe that is
the case in your photo.
-- Randall
_____
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 PM
To: Randall
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt
What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=0
<http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=5442752742&d=737223&p
=1&t=h&h=b60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7>
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
My method:
Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka
setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)
Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks
beforehand.
Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.
Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the
little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the
pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as
far as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but
the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. I
replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.
Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded
with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>
If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before
reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.
-- Randall
<http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442752742&d=737223>
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<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D634074621-29092015><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael =
said, I don't=20
believe that is the case in your photo. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><!-- Converted from text/plain format -->
<P><FONT size=3D2>-- Randall </FONT></P>
<DIV> </DIV><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: =
5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV dir=3Dltr lang=3Den-us class=3DOutlookMessageHeader align=3Dleft>
<HR tabIndex=3D-1>
<FONT size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><B>From:</B> Triumphs=20
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Art=20
McEwen<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
Randall<BR><B>Cc:</B> triumphs@autox.team.net<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[TR] TR3A=20
Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><A=20
=
href=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMz=
NuODU4dzBwcDBidHgvaW1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&r=3D5442752742&d=3D7=
37223&p=3D1&t=3Dh&h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https=
://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</A></DIV>
<DIV><BR>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com";>TR3driver@ca.rr.com</A>>=20
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
<DIV><SPAN>My method:</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Hardened =
all-thread,=20
hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) =
all=20
from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</SPAN><BR><SPAN>but =
double-check=20
that)</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Soak the pin in PBB (or your =
choice=20
of penetrating oil) for several weeks=20
beforehand.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Use a bottoming tap to =
clean=20
out the threads in the head. </SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Find =
a=20
suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the =
little=20
tab on the frame). Cut a piece of =
all-thread</SPAN><BR><SPAN>about 4"=20
long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the =
pin.=20
Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the =
best</SPAN><BR><SPAN>lube=20
you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin =
out as far=20
as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of =
torque</SPAN><BR><SPAN>(I=20
used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull =
against) but=20
the pin moved before anything broke. Add a=20
suitable</SPAN><BR><SPAN>spacer and pull some more. Lather, =
rinse,=20
repeat until the pin falls out. I replaced the nut & =
all-thread=20
once or twice, as they</SPAN><BR><SPAN>were looking=20
worn.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>Or; take the body off and =
commence=20
pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded with the first =
method but=20
I'm not certain it's</SPAN><BR><SPAN>actually easier than taking the =
body=20
off <g></SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>If you grease the pin =
up good=20
with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop =
right out=20
next time.</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR><SPAN>-- Randall=20
</SPAN><BR><SPAN></SPAN><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=3D""=20
src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&d=3D737223"; =
NOSEND=3D"1">=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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