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Sorry - I of course meant 240 Volts. Still recovering from the TR3 falling
off the jack, I guess...
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 6:02 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] FW: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
I would agree - A wire feed machine is what an auto body person needs unless
you plan on doing a lot of aluminum or stainless steel work. The flux core
wire is fine for some structural work but chipping slag makes it difficult
to get a clean bead to either weld or paint over. There may be some
multi-function machines that will have constant current (stick & TIG) and
constant voltage (wire feed) features but cost may be an issue. I would
stick with a name brand machine and a name brand gun so that consumables
will always be available. I wouldn't buy a welder that has a different name
on it than who actually makes it. 120 Volt machines may be okay for sheet
metal but will probably max out at 100 amps or so. They also will have a 20
amp outlet pegged to the max! Go with a 240 volt (not amp) machine for when
you want to do frames or other projects. Those machines will provide a top
output of around 180 - 200 amp. Some machines have multi-voltage inputs
which make them really versatile. For shielding gas, an Argon/Carbon Dioxide
mix will usually work well at about 25 cubic feet/hour. A knowledgeable
welding distributor will steer you in the right direction after you have
talked to an experienced welder. Be prepared for a variety of opinions. Make
sure you have a safe place to weld! Sparks can linger for quite some time
when they land against wood and then they come back to haunt you.
Alex Thomson
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew
Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 5:24 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] FW: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
Hopefully a typo, but what you need is a MIG welder, not TIG.
Hey - I am a physician and bought myself a MIG welder, found a local welder
and said - "teach me to weld!" I still can't run a decent bead (so I don't
do any structural work, like frames, but good spot welds suffice for the
majority of repairs (including floors).
Two tips:
- Buy a welder with a tank of argon: in my experience the fluxed
wire just isn't as good
- 240 amps makes for a much better weld
Andrew Uprichard
From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James_ via
6pack
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 3:59 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
Thanks everyone for the great words and advice.
I want a good job and get her on the road so i can drive it. but with all
these rusted out sections, i need to repair them first.
I am totally tempted to go out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LEARN
to weld!
Seriously. I haven't seen any welding classes over the summer, but there
will be many in the Fall. But I can teach myself and find friends of friends
instruct me.
I would not do the floor pans but at least the flat sections needing repair.
One area is on the firewall
near the commission plates . probably a 1"x5" section.
So most sections I need are flat sections. Except for the crazy corner
section directly under the fuse box, master cylinder area.
Which leads me to this: If I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and
wheel arch that I can extract this crazy multi-sided
section. I simply cut out the bad and have someone weld in the good
replacement. saves fabricating from scratch. or do it myself.
Anyone have a good source to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender
sections?
Ideally here in Oregon, but willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer if
someone has the small section I need and not have to ruin a good part that
is intact.
Thanks.
James
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Sorry – I of course meant 240 Volts. Still recovering =
from the TR3 falling off the jack, I =
guess…..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson@charter.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> =
Wednesday, June 10, 2015 6:02 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Andrew Uprichard'; =
triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [TR] FW: [6pack] Floorpan =
replacement and Rust repair quote...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I would agree – A wire feed machine is what an auto body person =
needs unless you plan on doing a lot of aluminum or stainless steel =
work. The flux core wire is fine for some structural work but chipping =
slag makes it difficult to get a clean bead to either weld or paint =
over. There may be some multi-function machines that will have constant =
current (stick & TIG) and constant voltage (wire feed) features but =
cost may be an issue. I would stick with a name brand machine and a name =
brand gun so that consumables will always be available. I wouldn’t =
buy a welder that has a different name on it than who actually makes it. =
120 Volt machines may be okay for sheet metal but will probably max out =
at 100 amps or so. They also will have a 20 amp outlet pegged to the =
max! Go with a 240 volt (not amp) machine for when you want to do frames =
or other projects. Those machines will provide a top output of around =
180 – 200 amp. Some machines have multi-voltage inputs which make =
them really versatile. For shielding gas, an Argon/Carbon Dioxide mix =
will usually work well at about 25 cubic feet/hour. A knowledgeable =
welding distributor will steer you in the right direction after you have =
talked to an experienced welder. Be prepared for a variety of opinions. =
Make sure you have a safe place to weld! Sparks can linger for quite =
some time when they land against wood and then they come back to haunt =
you.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Alex Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
Triumphs [<a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:triumphs-bounces@a=
utox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Andrew Uprichard<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Wednesday, June 10, 2015 5:24 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br><b=
>Subject:</b> [TR] FW: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair =
quote...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Hopefully a typo, but what you need is a MIG welder, not =
TIG.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Hey – I am a physician and bought myself a MIG welder, found a =
local welder and said – “teach me to weld!” I =
still can’t run a decent bead (so I don’t do any structural =
work, like frames, but good spot welds suffice for the majority of =
repairs (including floors).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Two tips:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo2'><![if =
!supportLists]><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>-<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'> =
</span></span></span><![endif]><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Buy a welder with a tank of argon: in my experience the fluxed =
wire just isn’t as good<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph style=3D'text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo2'><![if !supportLists]><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>-<span style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New =
Roman"'> =
</span></span></span><![endif]><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>240 amps makes for a much better weld <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Andrew Uprichard<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> =
6pack [<a =
href=3D"mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.t=
eam.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>James_ via 6pack<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Wednesday, June 10, 2015 3:59 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net";>6pack@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subje=
ct:</b> Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair =
quote...<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Thanks everyone for the =
great words and advice.<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I want a good job and get =
her on the road so i can drive it. but with all these rusted out =
sections, i need to repair them =
first.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I am totally tempted to go =
out, buy a TIG welder (a bit expensive) and LEARN to =
weld!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Seriously. I haven't seen =
any welding classes over the summer, but there will be many in the Fall. =
But I can teach myself and find friends of =
friends<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>instruct =
me.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>I would not do the floor =
pans but at least the flat sections needing repair. One area is on the =
firewall <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>near the commission plates =
. probably a 1"x5" =
section.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>So most sections I need are =
flat sections. Except for the crazy corner section directly under the =
fuse box, master cylinder area.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Which leads me to this: If =
I can locate a perfect salvaged inner fender and wheel arch that I can =
extract this crazy multi-sided<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>section. I simply cut out =
the bad and have someone weld in the good replacement. saves fabricating =
from scratch. or do it myself. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Anyone have a good source =
to find donor panels: wheel arch/inner fender =
sections?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Ideally here in Oregon, but =
willing to pay for shipping. Be even nicer if someone has the small =
section I need and not have to ruin a good part that is =
intact.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>Thanks.<o:p></o:p></span></p=
></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'>James<o:p></o:p></span></p><=
/div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>=
</div></div></div></div></body></html>
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