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sorry...hit send to quick....
I'd suggest staying away from drilled rotors. They have been known to
crack as the hole create stress fractures post heat cycling.
dippled and slotted rotors do help gasses escape the gap between shoe
and rotor surface.
You to to note also that when people talk about how good brakes
are...it's not the normal road use issues.... but brake fade when HOT.
Big brakes do help (larger surface contact areas) but unless you're hard
on brakes, or auto-x or race.... as decent set of semi metallic shoes
work fine and miminize the dusting of the wheels from brake dust, as
well as work better than when warmed up.
Bu the biggest issue of all and I find interesting is people commenting
on brakes that do/don't work right...when they were not bedded in
properly. Unless you properly bed in new pads on clean drum/disk
surfaces.... no brakes really work as well as they could/should. The
differences are quite amazing.
yes..personally I like the slotted/dimples rotors. If they have a 'name'
on them, you're usually paying more for that then the units themselves.
Good parts can be had for good prices...just got think and look around.
happy parts hunting
ptegler
On 3/8/2015 9:58 AM, Joao Simoes wrote:
> Hi folks.
>
> I have been noticing that apparently there is a shortage of new rear
> brake drums and original wheel cylinders for a mk3 GT6. I either find
> 'non available' as far as the drums or for the rear wheel cylinders, a
> smaller diameter being the only available ones.
> Any experiences here? I will try to see if rebuild kits are available
> on the cylinders and may have to reuse my drums, which are sort of at
> the max diameter limit.
>
> Also, what's the scoop on the Gt6's brakes? Are stock ones good? My
> car has a booster, is it really necessary because the Spitfire never
> had one and it seems to stop well.
>
> Are those upgraded discs, like EBC and others really any better? Or
> are they just cool looking, which will it matter to me because I am
> using the stock wheels, so you can barely see the discs anyway.
>
> Take care,
>
> Joao
>
> On Mar 6, 2015, at 9:32 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net
>
>> So I started to replace my broken TR4A IRS speedometer cable and it
>> seems the break was just inside the drive on the transmission. There
>> aren't any remains of the speedometer cable sticking out of the drive
>> so I need to pick the cable remains out of the drive somehow. Is it
>> possible to remove the drive gear from the transmission? I was hoping
>> I could remove the drive and at least not have to fish out the broken
>> cable stub laying on the cold garage floor.
>> If I can't easily remove the drive, has anybody "been there, done that"?
>> Thanks,
>> Dave Connitt
>> 1968 TR4A IRS
>> http://www.davestr4a.com
>>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmbs46@comcast.net
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net
--
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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sorry...hit send to quick....<br>
I'd suggest staying away from drilled rotors. They have been known
to crack as the hole create stress fractures post heat cycling.<br>
dippled and slotted rotors do help gasses escape the gap between
shoe and rotor surface.<br>
You to to note also that when people talk about how good brakes
are...it's not the normal road use issues.... but brake fade when
HOT.<br>
Big brakes do help (larger surface contact areas) but unless you're
hard on brakes, or auto-x or race.... as decent set of semi metallic
shoes work fine and miminize the dusting of the wheels from brake
dust, as well as work better than when warmed up.<br>
Bu the biggest issue of all and I find interesting is people
commenting on brakes that do/don't work right...when they were not
bedded in properly. Unless you properly bed in new pads on clean
drum/disk surfaces.... no brakes really work as well as they
could/should. The differences are quite amazing.<br>
yes..personally I like the slotted/dimples rotors. If they have a
'name' on them, you're usually paying more for that then the units
themselves.<br>
Good parts can be had for good prices...just got think and look
around.<br>
<br>
happy parts hunting<br>
<br>
ptegler<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/8/2015 9:58 AM, Joao Simoes wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:82AEDA00-5B16-42C4-AD71-045235A42ED1@comcast.net"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<div>Hi folks.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have been noticing that apparently there is a shortage of
new rear brake drums and original wheel cylinders for a mk3 GT6.
I either find 'non available' as far as the drums or for the
rear wheel cylinders, a smaller diameter being the only
available ones. </div>
<div>Any experiences here? I will try to see if rebuild kits are
available on the cylinders and may have to reuse my drums, which
are sort of at the max diameter limit.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Also, what's the scoop on the Gt6's brakes? Are stock ones
good? My car has a booster, is it really necessary because the
Spitfire never had one and it seems to stop well.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Are those upgraded discs, like EBC and others really any
better? Or are they just cool looking, which will it matter to
me because I am using the stock wheels, so you can barely see
the discs anyway.<br>
<br>
Take care,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Joao</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Mar 6, 2015, at 9:32 PM, Dave Connitt <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:dconnitt@fuse.net";>dconnitt@fuse.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
<meta name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 9.00.8112.16609">
<style></style>
<div><font face="Arial">So I started to replace my broken TR4A
IRS speedometer cable and it seems the break was just
inside the drive on the transmission. There aren't any
remains of the speedometer cable sticking out of the drive
so I need to pick the cable remains out of the drive
somehow. Is it possible to remove the drive gear from the
transmission? I was hoping I could remove the drive and at
least not have to fish out the broken cable stub laying on
the cold garage floor.</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial">If I can't easily remove the drive,
has anybody "been there, done that"?</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial">Thanks,</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial">Dave Connitt</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial">1968 TR4A IRS</font></div>
<div><font face="Arial"><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.davestr4a.com";>http://www.davestr4a.com</a></font></div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div><span></span><br>
<span>** <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a>
**</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br>
<span>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br>
<span>Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a></span><br>
<span>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmbs46@comcast.net";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmbs46@comcast.net</a></span><br>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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<br>
<pre wrap="">
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net";>ptegler@verizon.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com";>www.teglerizer.com</a>
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