On 12/16/2013 10:58 PM, John Summers wrote:
> HELP!!! I'm at my wits end!!
John,
First the clutch. Black means your seals are shot. I would remove the MC
and SC and rebuild/replace. Flush out the lines with alcohol as Randal
suggested.
Also replace the plastic line with a SS one from Ted S. (
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ ) At this time it is also a good
idea to replace the plastic oil pressure line with a SS line from Ted S.
I went with Dot 5 but it is not necessary.
The fact that your thrust washers are bad or dropped into the pan will
not make your clutch fluid go black.
If your TW have dropped into your pan, your crank may be shot. ALso it
is possible that the rear most end cap may also be shot which means a
new block. (Caps are drilled to match the block and a new cap would have
to be drilled accordingly.)
I would check your end float asap. If it is out of spec., remove the oil
pan and check to see if the washers have dropped out. If so, pull the
engine and maybe a complete rebuild is in order.
Rebuilding a 6 engine is not that hard if all the existing engine
parts/block is in decent shape.
Get an engine stand and get a hold of an expert such as Wishbone (
http://www.wbclassics.com/ ) for advice and good parts. There are others
but Wishbone was very helpful with my 72 rebuild.
As far as power upgrades, I have no advice. The only thing I did with my
6 was replace the ZS carbs with Hitachi SU HS6 and added an electronic
fuel pump. Rest is stock. The HS6 upgrade was not for power but for
reliability and my knowledge of ZS carbs is zero.
Goodparts ( http://goodparts.com/ ) are a good source of upgrade
parts/advice.
I have rebuilt both 3/4 engines and a 6 and I have to say that the 6 is
much easier.
Good luck.
Bob
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