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Re: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment
From: "spook01@comcast.net" <spook01@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:29:56 -0500 s=q20121106; t=1375471799; bh=MTbqEO0lRyAhz3EruY6i866eyOjLbN8t3DOusLSaqBY=; h=Received:Received:To:From:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=Rj5Hf07eY0ajuqWNHVMI9xp46iwAaIYdgM0JP2ZqoXLYMwIoSSRShDa1Hp5P0Qip1 q/jmfz7FdVUJtnZVJnJyFXMXcV77oQyJ9doQlfyGriVb0knbfmuK6ZwWkfLJgeu/8j cO7yBnA+1NrglurKnyku+BCb557LWDmd3VCpY3Si8/I5CIFDpcEO/lwbZqJFttpY0X KTaeVArMb9Gwfrc1gBN2ZgJaogU63nQsU61t352yAd9YE+aplw6BQJgOetkIzSaoS3 1ZPI+QcyFZcRehFGKkiiw9hxKigt0FsxI75htc+UsGQCJhVS3v009WQ3I+5J6Z0UtR Ru7pQr0y610gw==
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
The 20 means it performs as a 20 wt. oil at -25 f limited to 4500 rpm.
The 50 means that at 210 degrees (which is considered a normal warm engine 
temp), it has the load capability of a 50 wt. oil.
The cold numbers are a "pourability" number, too.
One further thing:  the additives that allow this depletes as the oil is used 
because the additive "package" goes away through shearing and other factors, 
leaving you with a less effective oil.  
A 20w-50 may wind up as a 20w-40. Using group four (4) pao synthetic oil does 
away with this problem since they don't have an additive package.  This is one 
reason they have longer change intervals.
Be sure its a group four synthetic.  Other groups may be just a more refined 
regular oil with less sulfer in it.
Interesting but not really germane for most of us. 
As Randal says, good pressure, enjoy the drive!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Angelo Graham" <agraham@execulink.com>
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - oil pressure adjustment
Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 1:00 pm


---- Angelo Graham <agraham@execulink.com> wrote: 

> My '2 had the early filter head with the partial full-flow feature.

Not "full flow" at all, it was a bypass type filter, designed to take wool felt 
filter cartridges that wouldn't flow enough oil to feed the engine.  So the 
engine was fed with oil direct from the pump, and the filtered oil was returned 
to the crankcase (to be sucked up the next time).  That sounds really bad, 
until you consider that many successful engines (eg the Model T and VW bug) had 
no oil filters at all!

> My engine seems to be 
> running a high oil pressure - around 50 lbs. at idle and going up to 
> around 70 - 80 lbs. revving or under load. I feel this is a bit high

That is perfectly normal, I would leave the adjustment alone!  Practical Hints 
calls for 70 psi minimum with hot oil and traveling at speed.  If you would 
like to see only 70 psi instead of 70 to 80; try using thinner oil.  Assuming 
you are still seeing 80 with the oil thoroughly warmed up; without a thermostat 
it takes much longer for the oil to get up to normal operating temperature than 
shown on the dash gauge.  A fresh engine shouldn't need 20W50 unless you 
routinely drive in desert conditions.  Again Practical Hints only recommends up 
to 40 weight.  (Note that the 20W portion of your oil's rating refers to its 
"winter" performance, below freezing.  At operating temperature, it's a 50 
weight oil.)

> Do you try to get the adjustment at idle and that should set it for the 
> entire range?

NO!  The pressure relief valve should only start to open at 70 psi.  In the 
vast majority of cases, it will not be open at all at idle.  And even once it 
starts to open, it operates over a range, so the pressure will still not be 
entirely constant.

> I have a freshly rebuilt engine with no apparent problems and using 20 - 
> 50 oil.

Stop worrying, get in and drive!
Randall

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