X2 on PB Blaster.
The stuff works the best of all the things I've tried over the years.
For the toughest jobs repeated applications and soak times over a
month can help, as Randall notes. A can lasts a couple of years in my
garage -- good value, and no point in scrimping on home-brew.
Don
On 1/21/13, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on
>> various penetrating oils.
>
> That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article.
>
>> Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me!
>
> Results may vary. I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not
> work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me. But I don't use it on
> "scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque
> it
> takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off.
> There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for
> PBB first.
>
> Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first.
> You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better. In severe
> cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a
> TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the
> penetration). Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I
> can't imagine that soaking helps much with it.
>
> PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me?
>
> -- Randall
>
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