That's a clever solution. According to the Moss catalog these are 2BA thread
but that's not a problem since I have a set of British taps. Now.
Thanks.
Dave Massey
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Dave Massey <dave1massey@cs.com>
Sent: Wed, Jan 2, 2013 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame
> Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping.
As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday
about this. What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you
drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax
stud. (10-32 I think, but please double check.) He claims the hex part of
the
stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud
is installed.
I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could
probably
stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it.
Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head. It is so nearly invisible
that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the
frame" fasteners originally. Since they were original equipment on some cars,
it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that.
But
you would know better than I <g>
Randall
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