Not sure you have this capability, but mounting the hub in a lathe and
checking with a run out gauge would tell you. You would have to mount the
hub in a lathe to turn it down anyway if you find rock on the face. Just
reverse it in the lathe and check it. A machine shop can check all of them
for you. I would think it would not be all that expensive to check them.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A (w/trued hubs)
72 TR6 (w/trued hubs)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cosmo Kramer" <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 10:01 PM
Subject: [TR] Wheel wobble/ Bearing race Cups?
Hi List!
OK, now that I started this thread & have replied to 99.9% of them. Here is
what I have:
9 wheels in total (5 with tyres & 4 just rims). I've gone to a club member's
house & we checked out all of them. I then found out that 3/32" is within
the spects of hop (up & down) & wobble (side to side). Wheel hop is more of
a concern than wheel wobble when worring about the wheel's roundness, to
effect the ride of the car.
Then I asked about how to check out the front hub's Bearing Race Cups to be
parallel. Most people replied: to use a dial indicator on a base (magenet or
clamp) to check the hub's 'roll out'.
BUT I questioned this method because if the hub's Bearing Race Cups are NOT
mounted into the hub parallel, then I feel that you will be getting a
reading of wobble; when the hub unit, it self, doesen't have a wobble or
warpness at all.
I have not done ANYTHING yet, except to check out each rim's bead on the
left side & right side of each wheel in what I feel was a crude way. BUT! It
DID give me more input on my problem than what I started with.
So this is a summary & I'm still in a quandary on how, SPECIFACIALY, do I
know if my hub's race cups are parralel after I use the dial indicator?
Thank You for all the replies, but I'm still needing more help. TIA
-Cosmo Kramer
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