Dave,
Based on yours and previous emails it appears the splined joints are
the likely problem.
I guess I know what I'll be doing this evening!
Thanks!
Brad
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 8:01 AM, <Dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
> In a message dated 8/17/2010 9:38:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
> brad.kahler@141.com writes:
>> What I think is missing is some sort of grounding wire from the
>> steering column to the rack and then from the rack to the frame. This
>> TR4 does have the solid aluminum mounts so I don't know that it would
>> need a ground wire from the rack to the frame. I'm not sure I see a
>> need for a ground wire on the lower metal u-joint that ties the lower
>> column to the steering rack.
>>
>
>
> Mr. Brister's solution notwithstanding, the TR6 has a black wire with a
> ring terminal that attaches under the steering rack fill plug. Since the
rack
> itself is mounted via rubber bushings the only ground path is through the
> suspension components which is unreliable at best. In fact all the attach
> points to the frame are implemented with rubber or nylon bushes If I
remember
> correctly.
>
> Connecting the shaft to the rack housing is problematic in that you would
> need some sort of watch spring arrangement that will wind and unwind as you
> turn the wheel. I tried that many years ago when my MGB horn stopped
> working. The wire lasted long enough to get me through my annual inspection
but
> not much longer. As it turns out there was sufficient rust in the U-joint
> connection to prevent electrical conduction and taking it apart and putting
it
> back together (I forget why I did it) fixed the horn problem. So check the
> U-joint of you get no joy. But the shaft to rack housing connection is
made
> by the gears and bearings inside the rack which are bathed in oil/grease
> and should provide many years of trouble free service.
>
> Of course you can bypass all that by using the slip ring solution offered
> by my friend Dave B.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Dave
>
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