Gary;
I did the Racetoration seal conversion when it first came out and it
leaks worst than the scroll ever did. Last year I rebuilt another engine and
used the modified scroll that Greg Solow sells and the engine does not leak
a drop. His modification basically is to remachine the scroll to reduce the
clearance from .012 across the dia to .006. It is cheaper than the
conversions and does not require any modification to the crank or block.
After first rebuilding the engine I did have a problem with oil leaking
and I though it was the new scroll seal but using some ultra violet oil dye
I traced the problem to the oil pan. I had the engine line bored but did not
ask them to surface the bottom of the block with the caps in place. This
resulted in a .010 gap at the rear main cap and I found that the gaskets
that come in the Payne kit could not seal that big a gap. I made my own
gasket using NAPA's rubberized cork gasket material and it sealed the pan up
nicely. So nicely that I went back and used it on the timing chain cover and
valve cover.
Must say it is nice to be able to park the car anywhere I want in the
driveway or garage and not worry about stains.
Bob Nogueira
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 12:24 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] oil seal update needed
>
>
> I've been reading about rear crank main oil seal fixes on
> tr-3's for some time but the last posts were confusing to me
> (not difficult) lol. I wasn't aware that the specs were
> wrong for the crank re-grind ect....... What are the correct
> fixes/grind for the crank? Which technical articles are the
> best to follow?
>
> thanks!
> gary n.
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