Bill,
Would you be willing to share a little more about the retrofit of your
new heater? I finally gave up on trying to patch the leaks in my Smith's
heater core, and the $500 price tag for a new core is a bit much for my
limited budget.
The main thing that I am curious about is how you dealt with the heater
hoses. Do the connections to the core poke through the fire wall or did
you find a way to hook up the hoses under the dash like the original
heaters?
Thanks,
Mike
William Brewer wrote:
> I've had my TR3A off the road for a month while I installed an
> aftermarket heater (which works great!). I had to relocate the relay for the
> A-type overdrive to fit the heater. I moved it from the rear wall of the
> battery box to the drivers side of the battery box. No big deal. I didn't even
> have to disconnect the wires. Everything worked well before moving the
> solenoid except that sometimes the relay wouldn't work unless I jiggled a
> certain wire. I think that the relay had a weak contact inside. I fixed that
> with some electrical tape so the wire always had a little strain on the relay
> fitting. Anyway, when backing out of the garage for a test drive, the car
> didn't want to roll backwards and at one point I had it in reverse and nothing
> happened when I revved the engine with the clutch out. My street is on a hill
> and when I got to the stop sign the car didn't roll backwards when in neutral
> as usual. The overdrive doesn't engage. The
> other 4 gears work fine. The not rolling backwards thing concerns me.
> Also, the trans has been rattling when I accelerate in the gears. I am
> thinking about starting with a new relay and testing the electrical. Any
> ideas? I think that HVDA conversions are the sane way to go.
> Bill in Tehachapi
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