Off-Topic from Wayne's TR-6. What the "Friends of Triumph" list for? Is
this another parallel list?
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 7:14 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] Wayne's TR-6
I think Greg intended to send this to the TR list, not the FOT list...
GREAT info.
- Tony
>From: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
>To: "Friends of Triumph" <FOT@autox.team.net>
>Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:18:09 -0700
>Organization: Engine Room
>
>A '73 TR_6 was originally timed at 4 Degree after top Dead Center with
>the vacuum retard connected and working. With the retard disconnected,
>the "static timing", ie. with the engine NOT RUNNING will be at around
>12 to 16 degrees BTDC. With the engine at an idle speed of around 750
>-800 RPM, and the retard disconnected, the ignition timing with a light
should be about 18 degree BTDC.
>With the engine accelerating up to about 4500 rpm, the timing should
>advance to 34 to 36 degrees BTDC. You MUST run at least 91 octane gas
>in this engine or you are likely to damage internal parts. The higher the
octane the better.
>Remember, in 1973 gas was rated differently, It was "Research Octane"
>and the number for a TR-6 was 98 octane. The current rating system uses
>a number 5 lower, so the current version of the same performance would
>be 93 octane. You have raised the compression, the engine now wants even
higher octane gas!
> In tuning a car, you always set the valve lash, then the timing,
>then adjust the carburetor idle speed and mixture. The Emission Control
>Stromberg carbs that came on your car cannot be properly tuned by the
>methods that you mentioned. When they are set correctly, raising the
>air valve will always cause the engine to stall. The needles and
>mixture was set up by the factory for passing emissions tests, not for
>performance. The jets must not be worn, the needles must not be worn,
>the fuel levels must be set to the proper height, the idle speed must
>be correct. The temperature compensators must be in good working
>condition, and the idle "throttle by-pass valves" must be working
>properly. Then the mixture can be set by raising and lowering the
>mixture needles in the air valves. This should be done on an exhaust
>analyzer following the instructions in the workshop manual. For
>everything to work properly, the vacuum retard must also be working!
>This is so because with the ignition retarded to 4 Degrees ATDC, the
throttle opening screws on the carburetors have to be screwed down way more
to in effect "speed up the idle"
>. with everything set properly, if the retard is not working, the
>timing will be around 20 degrees BTDC and the engine will idle at 1500 rpm
or so.
> Sorry, I am sure this is not the answer you wanted to hear!.
> It is might be possible to make things work without the retard
>applied, but everything else needs to be perfect, and the throttle
>by-pass valves on the carburetors will probably have to be modified to
>prevent them from opening and bleeding air around the throttle plates
>causing the idle to raise up even higher.
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg Solow
>
>The Engine Room
>Sports Car Specialists
>Santa Cruz, Calif. 95060
>831 429-1800
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