> Has anyone played with the adjusting screw on the top of the steering
> box to remove some of the slop in the wheel?
Yes, and I was very sorry I did. The excess forces caused by the screw
being too tight caused damage to both the peg and the worm. The peg is
cheap enough to replace, but the worm is expensive and difficult. Mine
looks like it has been gnawed by steel rats.
So I strongly recommend following the book instructions, with one caveat.
The book says in effect that, with everything disconnected, you should be
just able to feel the slight binding on-center that indicates there is no
end-play left in the peg/worm. We're talking remove the steering wheel and
turn the bare shaft with your fingers, to detect the tight spot. The caveat
is that your tight spot may not be in the center; if the worm/peg are
significantly worn. On my 59 TR3A, even after replacing the peg, there were
actually two tight spots, on either side of center.
It's also worth noting that the box is supposed to be somewhat sloppy, away
from center. The theory is that the suspension geometry and the weight of
the car should always provide a centering force, which takes up any play in
the box as you turn against the centering force. Misalignment or damage (or
poor quality repairs) can mess up the centering force.
Randall
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