In a message dated 3/21/2009 7:52:50 AM Central Daylight Time,
goh62agan@verizon.net writes:
> OK , I thought I could figure this out but I should have known better.
> How hard can it be ? I have the wiring diagram. Just plug in the wires
> , right?
> The problem with connecting" the" Brown/blue wire to the no. 1 terminal
> is that there are three brown/blue wires to choose from. Which two
> attach to the ignition and where does the third brown/blue wire go?
> The wiring diagram I have shows one brown/blue wire coming from the
> lighting switch and one coming from the generator control box. Where
> does the third brown/blue wire come from and what does it connect to?
> I'm going to have to trace all these wires aren't I? And I'm just
> getting started here. Yikes! Also how do you know when a good voltage
> stabilizer goes bad? TIA again.
> Gary O
>
I don't have a wiring diagram in fron of me but there should be one of those
wires on the ammeter. Whether it is that wire or not is what I am unsure of.
The symptoms of a bad voltage stabilizer are subtle. Many folks run for
years with a bad one without realizing it. What you will see is the
temperature
gauge and the fuel gauge will read about 25% high. Another symptom is the
readings will drop at idle and come back up at speed. Since the fuel gauge is
notoriously inaccurate, that is not a reliable indication but if the temp seems
a
bit high but not in the red but drops down at idle (especially with the
lights on) you probably have a bad stabilizer.
Your next question is probably "How do I test this off of the car?" Step
one: identify the input and output terminals. Step two: connect battery
voltage
to the input pin and the case. Step three: monitor the output pin with a test
light. The test light should switch ON and OFF at a rate of around once a
second. If it stays on continuously you need a new stabilizer.
Note: The OE stabilizers are not polarity sensitive and will work on negative
or positive ground systems. Some of the new replacements use an electronic
voltage regulator circuits which are polarity sensitive and will either not
work with the wrong polarity or will sustain damage with the wrong polarity.
They will also not work as described above. The output is not switched on and
off but will be a constant 10V. If think you have one of these you will need
to
test it with a volt meter.
Dave
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