I did a front end rebuild on my TR3 this past winter and went through
the same exercise. As Randall mentioned, the spring pan will need to
be about horizontal to get at those back nuts. I used a bottle jack to
help raise the outside of the arm and compress the spring. Be sure to
use the threaded rod through the spring after removing the shock to
keep that spring captive as you let off pressure.
Ray
Ray McCaleb
ray@raysmg.com
http://www.raysmg.com
-------- Original Message --------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sat, October 06, 2007 11:45 pm
To: "'Steve Ball'" <banjonut@verizon.net>,
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
> I'm using
> the Moss spring compressor, and I do have pressure when I
> tighten it, but
> maybe I'm supposed to really crank it and raise the wishbone
> up higher so I
> can get a wrench under there? What's the trick? How tight
> does that spring
> compressor have to be?
Yup, that's the idea. I had to tighten the compressor enough to
pull the
arms roughly level to have enough clearance to first turn the nuts
and then
remove them from the studs. If you look at the factory/Bentley
service
manual, I think there is a photo in there showing the spring
compressed and
the arms up pretty high.
Randall
_______________________________________________
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