I just replaced mine and the car's not handy to measure but I think 3" is
about right.
Certainly no longer.
I had the same bottoming problem with 185X15 on panasports. I replaced the
rear springs and now no problem with rubbing and she handles a lot better,
too.
Getting the bolts out of the silent blocks was a LONG process using heat and
PB Blaster, but eventually they came - does 5 weeks sound like a long time?
If you have any problems getting them out let me know. First hint, use a
fine threaded stud in the bolt through the frame - that way you're putting
pressure on the stud not the bolt you're trying to remove, and use grade
eight washers for the leverage on a socket over the bolt. I went through
about 6 or so studs during the process, but the threads in the bolt were
still good.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <nwolf@u.washington.edu>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:49 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 shackle length
> Hello Listers
> Can anyone tell me the correct length (pin-to-pin) of a TR2-TR4 shackle?
> I have a late TR4 with the deep-dish spring and big spacer under the axle,
> but the shackle is supposed to be the same part from TR2 through TR4 (but
> not TR4A).
> Here is the back-story: The car sits about 2" lower in the rear than it
> should, compared to other people's cars described in the Archives, and it
> bottoms out occasionally. The rear frame under the rear axle is about
> 5.5" from the ground. I have tall tires (Cooper Sportmaster 165/15), so I
> know that's not the problem.
> I suspect I have saggy springs. But there is also a possibility that
> the spring shackles are longer than normal... One of the previous owners
> told me the car had been lowered that way long ago, though he thought he
> had changed it back.
> Anyway, my shackles measure right around 3", and I was just wondering if
> this is correct.
> Thanks!
> -Nick Wolf
> 64-ish TR4
> Vancouver, BC
> _______________________________________________
> tfansher@comcast.net
>
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