> Needless to say, the car won't start... all I get is the red ignition
> light on.
Just to be clear, Kevin, you mean the starter motor does not run, correct ?
> On the key position III, I can't get continuity from 2-1, or
> 3-1, on the back of the electrical switch, in those positions.
I don't have the TR6 Bentley ... does terminal 1 connect to the white/red wire ?
Does the ignition lamp go out when you try to start the engine ?
What (if any) terminals do show continuity when it's in the start position
(position III) ?
> Is there a wiring work around I can
> do just to start the car...
One way would be to add a SPST switch (preferably a normally open pushbutton)
wired between the C1 and C2 terminals on the starter relay. Depending on how
temporary this is, you could just jam a pocket knife or screwdriver blade across
the terminals.
> Would Dan Master's
> Electrical Bible help me any here
Likely so, yes.
> , and, if need be, how horrible is
> putting in a new wiring harness...
With the description so far, I don't think you need a wiring harness. Worst
case, you may need to run a new wire from the ignition switch connector out to
the starter relay (bypassing the seat belt module).
> Since then, 2 suggestions have been the Seat Belt Module, (where and
> what is that?;
I don't recall where offhand. What it was supposed to do is disable the starter
when the driver (and passenger if present) were not wearing their seatbelts. It
also controlled the warning light on the dash. Many people disable it ... not
unusual for it to be gone altogether.
> Thought, suggestions.....
The starter relay is a good place to start (sorry). First check that a jumper
between C1 (white/red) and C2 (brown) does cause the engine to crank. If that
works, jumper from W1 (white/orange) to C2(brown). If that cranks the engine,
then the relay is OK.
Next I would look for the seat belt module (or the place it was), and make sure
the white/orange is securely jumpered to the white/red. Some DPOs will just
strip and twist the wires, which will not make a secure connection.
Then I'd move up to the switch itself, checking for voltage on the 2 and 4
terminals (which should be hot all the time, according to Dan's schematic), and
on 1 when turning the switch to the start position.
If none of that turns up a problem, then either the white/red or white/orange
wire is bad; and IMO it's time to run that new wire I mentioned.
BTW, a normal headlight relay is NOT electrically the same as the original
starter relay. The original starter relay had two normally open outputs, rather
then one NO and one NC (or just one NO), as headlight relays do.
Randall
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