Regarding garage floor painting, I used a two-part epoxy paint that I
obtained from a local paint store that sold mainly to contractors (1/3
the price of Home Depot). I truly believe that the secret(s) to a
robust coverage are prep and cure time. Muriatic acid etching with
copious amounts of rinse is required to get a good surface to allow the
paint to adhere. Days of dry time are required. This prep with acid is
true, I was told, even with brand new slabs, as mine was. One-week cure
time and no less after the paint is applied is the other advice that I
was given from these professionals that sell to professionals. I did
this too, and put on a second coat with another one-week cure.
Humorously, I sanded the first coat with 100-grit sandpaper while
leaning hard on a wallboard sander for about 2 hours (30x50 shop).
After much sweating, I got enough sanding dust after I swept up to fill
about a tablespoon. This stuff is tough. I am sorry, but I don't have
a brand name. Just find a paint shop that sells to professionals. Here
in Dallas it was Anchor Paints.
I painted my floor in 1996 and have had no peeling. I dropped a slot
screwdriver, tip down, from 10 feet and it didn't even chip the surface.
I have had brake fluid mixed with rubber compound sit on the floor for
weeks (leaking wheel cylinder) and it only discolors the paint a little.
I routinely use lacquer thinners and enamel reducers that spill onto the
floor with no ill effects. Carb cleaners, no problem, and I sometimes
use those to clean up a particularly nasty work area. I have had a
gasoline puddle catch fire and that didn't even soften the surface.
Truly, the only thing that really causes discolorations are weld
spatter, and then I can get those off with rubbing compound (seems less
important as the years go by). Do use a grit on the top though, as my
floor is slicker than snot when wet. I elected to go smooth for ease of
mopping and cleaning.
Hope this helps.
Ed Fisher
Dallas, Texas
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