> >5. I recently read a post that mentioned that none of the usual
> >suppliers sell a rear oil seal mandrel with the accurate dimension. Who
> >does?
>
> I don't know of anyone, although I'll make my own if I ever get to that
> point
> again. Hey Joe, want another tool to make ?
>
my son Sean made a mandril out of bar stock and even knurled the handle,.....
but I have a whole series of theories about that much maligned non-contact
seal.
most leaks only appear to be caused by this seal.
by virtue of the fact that they are a non-contact seal, they likely do not
wear out.
since there is no real adjustment latitude, the alignment tool has little
chance to do any aligning.
oil that leaks from ANY part of the engine tends to migrate to the
transmission bell housing and the alloy seal gets blamed for it.
you can never have enough venting (or a negative pressure device) in a TR3/4
engine and they certainly dont have enough, typically, in a race engine.
I installed a negative pressure crankcase system and I went from wet to dry
chassis....like magic. And I have the original seal in place, never once
considering the conversion to a lip seal.
That's my story....think about it. There is more drilled and tapped 'thru'
holes in that engine than I care to count. Take your aging front cover and or
oil pan and put it on a belt sander and see what the capscrews and washers have
done to that flat surface.
Oil even seeps through the pushrod tubes, especially the alloy ones. If you
dont have Justin's Magic Valve Cover Gasket, the cover is inclined to leak.
All that oil migrates to the bottom of the bell housing and blames the leaks
on that poor alloy seal.
There's more, but that's enough.
Joe Alexander
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