> I've now got the new (aftermarket) steering rack and all of the
> front suspension back together and am dismayed to find that it
> takes much more effort to turn the steering lock-to-lock than it
> used to.
I second the suggestion to separate the tie rod ends again, and see where
the binding is. Having learned the hard way, I now check for free movement
at each stage of work, including just before I install the springs.
> My thoughts of the possible culprits are: 1) steering rack itself ,
> 2) ball joints , 3) trunions, 4) Goodpart aluminum rack mounts
> putting too much clamping force on the tube, 5) Something else
> too tight??? Any suggestions o!
> n what to
> try/check?
Although written about a TR3 rather than a TR6, the vertical links are the
same.
http://personal.linkline.com/koblinger/trsc/tech%20articles/hardsteer.htm
> Another question while I'm at it: When I installed the front
> hubs on the spindles with new grease seals and bearings, with the
> crown nut slacked off just enough to get the hub loose enough to
> turn, I could barely get the cotter pin into the hole in the
> spindle because the crown nut was out too far on the spindle
> threads. It was almost like something was thicker than before.
> Maybe the grease seal?
That's it exactly. Many have reported that the new seals are thicker than
original, which can give a false reading when setting bearing clearance.
Some have converted to modern lip-type seals to solve the problem (sorry,
don't recall the part number offhand). What I have found is that the new
seals compress OK when the axle nut is torqued to the relatively high value
given in some of the later service manuals. (Don't recall offhand ... 30
ftlb ?) Then when you back off the recommended number of flats, the bearing
clearance is right even if the seal is still tight.
Randall
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|