> Thanks ! I did not have the distributor on my TR4 motor in yesterday, but
> it's on now! Without the spark plugs in, I cranked it for a
> total of about
> 3-4 minutes today. (Done over about 5 attempts)The oil pressure gauge
> slow-l-y climbs up to about 18psi when I'm spinning it w/o the plugs. But
> it takes about 18 seconds to build up to those 18 psi!
I'm going to renew my suggestion that the line to the gauge is blocked, or
the gauge is defective.
How on earth are you reading 18 psi ? Mine only has tic marks every 10 psi
or so ...
> It is not spurting, but only 'weeping' oil out the rockers when
> I'm spinning it.
That's normal, IMO.
> Do I need to continue to be concerned about the 1/16" crack
> immediatly
> below the distributor. This crack has dried RTV oozing out where
> the engine
> shop attached it.
That would certainly concern me. Especially the RTV oozing out ... if it's
oozing out, it's probably also oozing in where it may break loose and cause
problems (like blocked oil passages, NOT a good thing). What is cracked,
the distributor pedestal ? If so, just replace it ! Used ones should be
readily available and cheap.
> The major problem yesterday was that it seemed half the oil I put in came
> out! Well, today I put in 1 qt. of cheap oil, pouring it in thru the
> distributor mounting hole and it measures about 1/4" over the
> second (full)
> mark on the dipstick. (So I guess I overreacted.) Overfilling it
> by 1/4" or
> so won't hurt it will it?
No, should be OK. Might make it leak a bit worse until the level is down,
that's all.
> Also, I haven't got any PCV hoses run or anything.
Should be OK at this stage, as long as there is an open vent for the
crankcase. But don't try to seal it up, as that will certainly cause oil
leaks and may actually damage seals and gaskets.
> But since their now tight
> against their
> 1/16"copper washers maybe I should forget about 'em (I did tell my engine
> shop about them).
Whatever damage was done, is done. No point in worrying about it now.
> Remember though, although the engine is mounted in the car, but
> without the
> gearbox attached! You see, I'm still suspect of the rear engine seal
> leaking. 'Spinning' the motor is easy, but, for cranking it do I need to
> brace it more in the chassis?
Grab the engine and shake it with all your might. If you can knock it off
of whatever is holding it up, it wasn't secure enough.
(Obviously I don't mean this literally ... if you think you could shake it
off, then support it better.)
Randall
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