Thanks ! I did not have the distributor on my TR4 motor in yesterday, but
it's on now! Without the spark plugs in, I cranked it for a total of about
3-4 minutes today. (Done over about 5 attempts)The oil pressure gauge
slow-l-y climbs up to about 18psi when I'm spinning it w/o the plugs. But
it takes about 18 seconds to build up to those 18 psi!
It is not spurting, but only 'weeping' oil out the rockers when I'm spinning
it. Do I need to continue to be concerned about the 1/16" crack immediatly
below the distributor. This crack has dried RTV oozing out where the engine
shop attached it. I had changed my mind about using a drill to turn the
oil pump drive shaft as I really didn't want to 'break open' the seal (RTV)
that my engine shop used in mounting the distributor pedestal. Also, I
triple checked to insure that I assembled the oil pressure sending unit
correctly.
The major problem yesterday was that it seemed half the oil I put in came
out! Well, today I put in 1 qt. of cheap oil, pouring it in thru the
distributor mounting hole and it measures about 1/4" over the second (full)
mark on the dipstick. (So I guess I overreacted.) Overfilling it by 1/4" or
so won't hurt it will it? Also, I haven't got any PCV hoses run or
anything.
Maybe I'm a worry wort(?), but the 3 loose cam bearing retainer screws that
I tightend earlier still worry me. But since their now tight against their
1/16"copper washers maybe I should forget about 'em (I did tell my engine
shop about them).
feeling better, now what? Time to crank it?
Remember though, although the engine is mounted in the car, but without the
gearbox attached! You see, I'm still suspect of the rear engine seal
leaking. 'Spinning' the motor is easy, but, for cranking it do I need to
brace it more in the chassis?
Thanks a billion,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3A
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