Bill,
I just replaced my heater control valve too and used the opportunity to take
the old one apart to see why it failed. The new valve (from TRF) isn't stiff
at all and moves easily by hand. Once hooked up to the control cable, it
was no worse then the old one which required some "force" (similar to the
choke) to operate it. The old one came apart by drilling out the rivet and,
as you've noted, twisting the top and bottom takes it apart. I don't see why
the rivet can't be replaced with the small bolt and lock nut to clamp the
two pieces together to prevent movement. Just a thought.
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steinman, Bill
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:48 AM
To: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net; Triumph List
Subject: New heater valve leaking
Howdy all. Took advantage of the nice weather while I wait for a new PDWA
to replace the original heater valve on my 250. The operation was flawless
-- old valve came off nicely, as did the original (yes,
original) black and white striped hose. No problems whatsoever.
However, when I got everything hooked up and did a test, I noticed that the
top of the heater valve housing moved a bit when I pulled the switch open
and when I closed it. I know the new valves are stiff, but upon inspection,
it appears that the rivet wasn't seated properly, allowing for some movement
between the top and bottom portions of the housing.
This is allowing a tiny little bit of fluid to drip out. Any way to fix
this (perhaps using a pliers on the rivet) or is the replacement valve
hopeless? My father and I laughed about it. The operation went flawlessly,
but this justifies our general lack of trust for new replacement stuff.
Thanks!
Bill S.
TR250 CD8464L
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