Hi-
You know, I had a heck of a time with problems like this on my TR6 clutch.
It is a marginal system on this car. Basically, I came to the conclusion
that it is the amount of "throw" that determines how well it works. What I
mean is that once you start pressing on the clutch pedal, any slop in the
system uses up some of the throw and your clutch does not disengage fully is
there is too much slop.
Now there are many moving parts in this system. When I rebuilt my car I
noticed that the throw-out bearing carrier had deep grooves in it and the
release fork pins were also worn, I replaced all of that. But I still had
these sort of problems.
Then it occurred to me (and you might want to do this) to check the clevis
pins that connect the pedal to the master and also at the linkage to the
slave cylinder. Mine had deep grooves in them which was using up that
precious 'throw'. Replacing them helped, but not enough.
But because this is a 30+ year old system, it is very difficult to
eliminate all of the slop and never could get it to work well enough. So I
found a 'cheat'.
Now I hesitate to share this next thing with you because it really does
classify as a bodge and we got guys like Randall and such who might really
hate this ... but on the other hand it worked very well on my car.
So for those of you who never do bodges on your TR's - you should stop
reading now.
Okay Aaron, now that nobody is reading, here is my bodge: On the clutch
pedal arm, there is a tang welded to it. This tang is a stop that contacts
the floor of the car. Bend it out of the way gives you maybe 1/2" more throw
on your clutch.
As they say in the computer industry: "works for me".
-Steve
'74 TR6
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