Terry,
I use the "nine rule" when adjusting my valves. For example, when the
number 1 valve is fully open, you should be able to adjust the number
8 valve, when the number 2 valved is open, adjust the number 7 valve.
The idea is that the open valve number and the valve being adjusted
add up to 9.
As you noted, they open in pairs. I have no idea off hand what the
sequence is. I usually just remove the valve cover and spark plugs,
put the car in fourth gear, and start rolling it by pushing on the
front wheel until a valve opens, then start from there and keep
rolling it forward until I've checked all the valves or hit the wall
in the back of my garage. <grin> I never really pay any attention to
what cylinder I'm on. Just take the number of the valve that's down
(open) and subtract it from 9 and adjust that valve (numbered 1
through 8 from front to back).
I hope this helps!
--
Kurtis Jones
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4 - CT19389L
1959 AH Bugeye - AN5L23250
www.geocities.com/tr4_1963
On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:52:05 EST, Harlyred1@aol.com <Harlyred1@aol.com> wrote:
> I've got the front seal, timing cover, hub, fan etc all back on in the
> correct order. I figure now is just as good a time as any to do a valve
> adjustment. This is a first for me. I'm reading the manual, but I have as
>always
> managed to confuse myself. The book says to turn the engine until the valves
>of any
> cylinder are at the "point of rock" Now in my way of thinking, is this the
> same as "balanced"? If I am at No 1 cyl TDC ( i.e. timing marks lined up at
> the point on the timing cover), is No1 cyl at "point of rock" ? And to take
>it
> further, should I now be able to slide a ..010 feeler through the top of both
> inlet and exhaust valves? Can I also do no4 at this point? And then rotate
> the engine till 2 and 3 are at point of rock? As always thanks in advance.
>
> Terry
> Hampton Bays NY and running out of days
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