Hi Tim
Try letting the bleed nipple go when you have pumped up the system and have
pressure in it.
One problem with bleeding brakes is that the normal travel of the pedal is
somewhat shorter than the stroke available during bleeding, this means that
the master cylinder seals get used in an area that may have pitted or rusted
during normal use when the piston does not reach it. Do you live in an area
of high humidity, if you do are you using Silicone fluid as this should
prevent the hygroscopic action of the normal fluids, and in turn prevent (or
reduce) the action of the moisture on the steel components.
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gaines" <
Subject: bleedin' brakes!-TR6
> Bleeding the brakes on my TR6 is one of my biggest headaches, and I
>snip
> So I need advice. I'm afraid that I may have to redo the MC seals
> again, and I don't want to have to do that. There are two things
> that make me think it is just an air pocket in the line somewhere.
> First, the brakes worked fine until the leak. It seems unlikely that
> two different problems would arise at the same time. (But maybe the
> leak dried out the MC seals and they are now bad?) Second, if I
> rapidly pump the pedal I do get pressure and it holds if I then keep
> my foot on pedal. Would that happen if the MC seals were bad? If it
> is just an air pocket, how do I get it out?
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Tim
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