> Well today when I disassembled the unit to install the new adapter I
> discovered that the hylomar had become very gummy
Not sure I follow you here, Ronnie, Hylomar is supposed to be gummy and stay
that way. I've used it in transmissions and never had a problem.
> and was floating around inside the unit.
You must have put it on way too heavy then, for any significant amount to be
squeezed out of the joints.
> Permatex aviation gasket sealer.
Permatex also works well on transmissions. I note that Herman van den Akker
used it on both of the ODs he rebuilt for me, so far one doesn't leak but I
think the other one does.
> And more importantly do you
> experience any leaks for your OD unit.
The adapter plate is definitely a weak spot on the A-type, especially if you
make a mistake while using the two studs to pull the OD into place against the
plate. John Esposito sells uprated adapter plates.
> I wonder if it may be a
> problem with the top cover, I'm wondering if the little ball and spring
> may be worn. Any thoughts?
The book gives tests for both the shifter rail and the shift hub, and says to
shim the springs as necessary to obtain the required force.
If this is a 4-synchro box, there is also an early/late issue where mixing hubs
and gears may cause it to jump out of gear. I know one of our local club
members fought this problem for a long time before someone noticed the write-up
in the TRF TR6 catalog (pages 166-167, Vol 1 of the paperback version).
Matching the hub to the gears solved the problem. According to TRF, there were
4 distinct gearsets used, with only limited interchangeability between them.
> While I have the car up on stands I decided to pull the front wheels and
> take a look as to why the wheels lean in slightly, In other words the
> top of the wheel is closer to the center line of the car than the
> bottom. (Caster-camber not sure which is which)
That is camber, and a small amount of negative camber (top closer to the
centerline) is a Good Thing.
There is no adjustment on a stock TR3, but ISTR it's possible to install the
upper pivots backwards and screw it up. The wheels naturally want to tilt that
way, so it may also be a sign of excess wear in any of the pivots (especially
the upper inner ones that never seemed to last very long for me).
> I also discovered that I have a slight bit of play at the hub assembly.
> I removed the cotter pin and tightened the axle nut removing the play.
> How tight, should this nut be tightened? I'm afraid that with the age of
> these cars the factory specs may or may not apply.
On cars with disc brakes, the book (Practical Hints, 6th edition) says to
tighten the nut until the bearing drags (which ensures the seal is compressed
and there is no clearance in the bearing) and then back off 1/2 flat. Note that
this is different than the 1-1/2 to 2 flats given in the workshop manual (and
reprinted elsewhere, like the Haynes). The Driver's Instruction Book (2nd
edition) says that for cars with disc brakes used in competition work, to back
off another 1/2 flat; but this isn't in the later manual.
> The bearings look good but I'll repack them anyway, I'm already there.
Yes, of course. They're supposed to be repacked every 12k miles, the goal is to
keep the bearings looking good !
Randall
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