Mark Endicott wrote:
>I have a persistent fuel line leak with the mechanical fuel pump on my TR4.
>There is a steel line attached to the output of the fuel pump that has a
>compression fitting and a steel line that routes to the carbs. It just
>doesn't look right and I can't see in the pump outlet. I tried some
>Permatex thread sealer but I think the leak is around the tube. Can someone
>tell me if there should be a flare on the fuel line or is the compression
>fitting correct?
>
Mark, I just struggled with this problem on my '62 TR4. Fuel had seeped
from the pump for a couple years, not a lot but enough to leave my
garage always smelling like gasoline. I thought the pump body or
diaphram was leaking. While I had the tranny out I took a day to try to
sort the pump. I swapped on another pump with the old lines. It leaked
profusely, but it was more clear the leak was from the outlet pipe. I
ordered new pipes from Moss. The inlet pipe was too short with an "L"
bend rather than the original gentle bend, and the outlet pipe washer
wasn't the same profile as my old washer. For the inlet I used the old
pipe and new compression fitting and nut and it held tight. With the old
fitting I could wiggle the pipe a little, not right. I used the new
steel outlet line but with the old fitting and old compression washer.
Actually I changed things back and forth several times trying different
combinations, and finally it all sealed tight to my surprise. I *think*
the problem was either dreck on the sealing surface for the compression
washer or a damaged fitting. Somehow all the fussing resulted in a good
seal.
You might take this opportunity to install a fuel shut-off on the short
hose running from the steel line on the body to the inlet pipe. I used
one from a lawn mower, but watch to get the right size because those
lines are larger than most lawn mower fuel lines. The shut-off will make
it convenient to empty the fuel sediment bowl in the future, and to
remove the fuel pump next. Next, you'll need to remove the fuel pump.
You can order a few extra gaskets from Moss or whoever or make your own.
Order a few extra bowl seals at the same time, they only last a couple
uses. It's fairly easy to remove the pump, just remove those two nuts.
'Just' might be misleading since that rear nut is tucked away. You'll
want a 1/4" drive socket with a wobble extension to get around the pump
body to the rear nut. It may take a strong tug, careful not to break the
glass bowl. With the pump off, you can clean the sealing surface in
hopes of getting a good seal again. Or at least you can see what the
overall condition is. It's possible but not easy to reinstall it wrong;
once you get it straight on the mounting bolts you shouldn't have to
force it.
One thing I can say: you won't find the right fittings at your local
hardware or car parts store. I spent hours trying, as have others on the
list. If you need them, order the lines new from Moss or TRF if they
carry them.
Steven
Littleton, CO
'62 TR4
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