Thanks to everyone for their ideas and suggestions. Since the overheating
problem is relatively new (getting worse over the last month or so) I'm sure
it's not a bypass issue, or a thermostat issue, or a fan issue, or a water
wetter issue. The symptom of the overflow reservoir constantly overflowing,
plus air in the radiator leads me to believe that if we fix that, we fix the
overheating.
Tonight we talked over my overheating problem at the SD TClub, and tomorrow I'm
having the coolant tested for exhaust gases (also known as a block test). We
believe that the head gasket may have burnt through, especially since I have 87
mm pistons and there have been similar type problems with these gaskets in the
past with the bigger liners. A compression test, nor a cooling system pressure
test wouldn't find this type of problem.
I'll give everyone an update by Friday.
Thanks!
John
-----Original Message-----
From: John A. Wise [SMTP:Wise@erau.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 6:50 PM
To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: TRactor Engine Overheating
>John wrote:
>
>>Today I pulled the thermostat (it's a 160 deg), and tested it on
>>the stove. It
>>fully opens and closes, but it appears to "shudder" or step as it opens. It
>>also looks like the bi-metallic piston is off center so I'm off to the parts
>>store to get a $5.00 cheapy - this time a 185 deg. If the thermostat change
>>doesn't cure the overheating the cause is either the radiator or a
>>blockage in the block/head.
I did a very informal study in my 1960 TR3A in Phoenix 110F weather.
I removed the thermostat & drove my car. I put in an outer ring of a
thermostat without the inner-ring & drove the car. I then put in a
regular 165 F thermostat & drove the car. I found absolutely no
difference in operating temps.
John
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