> Is there any way of timing the cam/crank when the cam wheel is new
> with no marks without the head in place.?
Haven't tried it myself, but this should work :
You'll need a 1" travel dial indicator (and a stock grind camshaft). Have
the crank & flywheel installed in the block. I would suggest starting by
using the dial indicator to find precise TDC for the crank and mark it on
the flywheel and block.
Install the camshaft in the block and by eye, turn it so both lobes for
cylinder #4 are pointing upwards evenly. This is roughly TDC for the
camshaft. Turn the crank to TDC on 1 & 4 and do a trial installation of the
timing chain without moving the shafts.
Install a (lightly oiled) lifter into #4 intake, set a push rod into it, and
then set the dial indicator to read the lift of the pushrod with some
compression on the indicator (at least .025"). Turn the crank backwards
about 1/4 turn, and make a note of the indicator reading. Turn the crank
forwards until you read .010" lift and make a pencil mark on the flywheel
and block.
Now turn the crank roughly 1/4 turn forwards, and move the lifter &
indicator setup to #4 exhaust. Note the indicator reading, and turn the
crank backwards past .010" lift, then forwards until the lift just drops to
.010". Make another pencil mark on the flywheel, next to the mark on the
block previously made.
At this point, the two marks on the flywheel are equidistant from TDC for
the camshaft. Turn the crank until it splits the two marks. If the crank is
within 4 degrees of it's TDC, then the cam timing is right. Advanced (crank
is up to 4 degrees BTDC when camshaft is at TDC) is better than retarded,
since the chain will stretch slightly under actual load.
Randall
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