To All
At long last (one and half months) the reverse gear grinding is gone.
In the process
new Borg and Beck clutch and pressure plate
new Gunst bearing and brass sleeve kit with spring, fork, cross
shaft
and bushings
Master and Slave rebuilt, new flex line, new fork shafts and
pins
Switched to silicon fluid
new rear engine oil seal and pilot bushing
new transmission front seal and housing
new Speedometer cable ( after a number of years I know
again if I am speeding)
Added emergency hood release
new fly wheel bolts as the others were over stressed.
Thanks to all for the assistance. Especially the Chris Wehling of TTSSC
for the
help in removal and installation of the transmission. Also the Central
Ohio TRIUMPH
Auto Club for the in-depth analysis on TR6 transmissions.
The End
Gary Oehrle
-----Original Message-----
From Oehrle Gary (IFNA COM)
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 10:57 AM
To: '6pack@autox.team.net'; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Cc: 'rgperry@earthlink.net'; 'sawblade@ptd.net'; 'tr6_1969@hotmail.com';
'lang@isis.mit.edu'; 'mjb@autox.team.net'; 'jamdav@woodward.com';
'vance.navarrette@intel.com'; 'Todd Bermudez'; Oehrle Gary (IFNA COM);
'Sally or Dick Taylor'; 'Cristr6@aol.com'; 'nariedel@adelphia.com';
'TTSCC@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Chapter 3 on TR6 Transmission--Reverse gear grinder
to All
the transmission was pulled last night:
Clutch: Sachs type MF215 Koyo bearing
In short refer to Nelson Riedel article
"TR250/TR6 Clutch Release Bearing Woes"
or "TR250/TR6 Reliable Clutch" since the
clutch finger wear is identical to that pictured
there. In fact I would wager Murry Mercier and I
have the same number of miles after the last
rebuild!!!
In addition, we noticed wear on the fork pins
(assuming they were round when install new
several years back. The pilot bushing was a
little wobbly and the throw out sleeve was
a little wobbly on the transmission front cover.
(but not near as shown in the "Sticky Clutch" article.
No elongation in the slave fork but some in the
master fork. Bearing Fork was not cracked or broke but can
not say for sure if it was not bent. Taper pin and
cross bolt intact.
In summary nothing obvious and now thinking it is
the summation of wear on the clutch fingers, master
fork etc. etc. etc. just like so many other TR6s!!
at this point the plan is to start a rebuilding
1. clutch shaft and bushings
2. fork and taper pin plus cross pin
3. transmission front cover, seal etc
4. the Throw-out bearing and sleeve
Gunst--per Nelson Riedel's article
5. new clutch
Sachs (assuming a still lower
release force over Luk and B&B
6. new pilot bushing and rear engine seal.
yep a little engine oil leaking
7. new fork on master plus rebuild it as well. (hopefully someone
sells just the fork!!
Comments, feedback and editorials are welcome
Also: I would appreciate any and all feedback about changing
to the aluminum flywheels.
Thanks this far to: Chris Wehling for the help in the warm garage as it
was 103F yesterday in Livermore CA and Nelson Riedel and his articles on
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/. And all those how have provided there
earlier comments and feedback.
Gary Oehrle
Watch for Chapter 4. "Did the rebuild work!!!"
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
|