At 04:12 PM 9/2/2004, Angelo Graham wrote:
>Hello List:
>Asking about experiences installing original rear seal on TR wet sleeve
>engines. Did most make up a mandrel according to manual specs and use this
>to center seal halves?
>Any other techniques to center seal? Seems centering using mandrel, then
>removing and installing crank, then re-installing seals leaves lots of
>room for loosing original setting.
>At this point in engine re-build, so wondering if going off and making up
>a mandrel and following the book is the way to proceed.
>Thanks for any insights.
>
>Angelo Graham
>'55 TR2
I've never used the mandrel, because the one a buddy of mine owns is the
wrong dimension. I did re-install the stock rear seal on two TR's and they
have been remarkably free of leaks, but don't tell anybody how I did it,
because I'm sure it's wrong. It sure worked great, however.
The problem I find with the stock design is that the darned holes aren't
usually big enough to jiggle the thing around and center it. Also, since
the two ends butt against each other, you can hardly close it down
top-to-bottom.
What I did was 1)file the ends of both halves just a few thou -- set it on
a file and drag it back and forth with the full contact face on the file.
2) take a rat-tail file and make all the bolt holes a little bigger.
3)install the top half loosely on the block, put the crank in, and look at
the side clearance between the seal and the crank. even it up with a feeler
gauge. 4)yeah, I know this is the wrong thing to do, but -- tap the seal
vertically toward the centerline of the crank until it touches the crank.
4) tighten the bolts on the top half. 5) follow roughly the same drill on
the bottom half that's on the main cap, but in this case you can't use a
feeler gauge, so just even up the outside edges. I think it was
manufactured as one piece anyway.
And if it leaks, don't blame me. Remember that I told you that this would
probably not work. Sure worked for me, though.
uncle jack
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