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RE: TR4's first outing

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: TR4's first outing
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:08:49 -0700
> Oil pressure was 50 on the way out (to the monthly local TR club
> meeting) on the freeway at 50-60 mph.  At idle it was about
> 20-30.  After setting for about 2 hours, on the way back pressure
> dropped to about 30-40 at highway speeds, still 20-30 at idle.
> I'm running 10-30 Castrol.  I have no idea how many miles are on
> the engine but it does not burn oil and sounds tight.  Should I
> go to a heavier weight oil?  Oh, ambient temps in the low 80s or
> high 70s tonight.

That pressure won't hurt anything, but if you live in that warm of a
climate, then I would suggest switching to 20W50 at your next oil change.
Also wouldn't hurt to check your pressure relief valve and pressure gauge
calibration.  If memory serves, the relief valve isn't supposed to open
until 70 psi.  With it closed, oil pressure should be directly proportional
to engine rpm (at a given temperature).  The fact you are seeing 20-30 at
idle but only 30-40 at speed suggests either the valve is opening early or
the gauge is reading low.

> Soft glow from the gen/alt light when engine running, never got
> brighter or dimmer with revs (alt conversion is done in such a
> way that the amp guage shows discharge only....I guess.)  Thoughts?

Generally with an alternator, the light compares the alternator's internal
voltage supply to the regulator with the voltage in the ignition circuit.
If there is enough difference to make the lamp glow, then you may have a bad
diode in the alternator, or a bad connection somewhere in the wiring
before/after the ignition switch (or even a bad switch).  I would check it
out, since if it's a bad connection it will only get worse and may cause
other damage when it does.

IMO, a digital multimeter is an absolute necessity for LBC ownership.  I
carry one of Harbor Freight's cheap DMMs in my trunk always.  They're
amazingly rugged (for the price) and cheap enough that if I do manage to
destroy one (by running over it or whatever), I haven't lost much.   Not
terribly accurate, but good enough for automotive troubleshooting.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33499
(Note these are occasionally on sale for 1/2 price)

I also recommend a package of clip leads (aka jumpers) from Radio Shack.
They're handy for connecting one probe to ground while you probe with the
other one, or connecting the meter to some circuit you want to monitor while
you drive.  In a pinch, they can be used to temporarily patch around wiring
problems.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=278-1
157

> Clutch is grabby...difficult to get under way in 1st gear from a
> stop with out a lot of chatter and lurching.  Good pedal, no
> problem shifting, etc.  I suspect contamination...could it be
> from a rear main or?  No leaks (in that area anyway!)

I'd keep a close eye on the transmission oil level.

> Other than that, it took me there AND brought me back.

Funny how those TRactor motors always get you home, isn't it ?

Randall
- born in San Antonio, but "born again" in California <G>

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