David
In my opinion, if you have to take the gearbox out, you should renew
everything that is even slightly worn or suspect.
I did it in January when my clutch failed at 56,000 miles. The
following was done:
Clutch disk relined
Spring replaced in pressure plate
Flywheel ground (otherwise no guarantee on rebuilt clutch)
Cross shaft bushes replaced
RHP bearing replaced with Koyo (original not available and yes, it is
stiffer - perhaps that is to be expected in a new bearing)
Taper pin was broken and replaced
Trunnions on fork replaced (flats worn from contact with bearing
carrier - available from TRF)
Fork and shaft cross drilled and bolted.
The first taper pin was purchased locally (Australia) but I believe
it originated from Moss US or maybe Moss UK. It was was worse than
useless and did not come close to fitting. It had a distinctive
copper coating. Apologies to Moss if I am wrong about its origins.
The second taper pin came from TRF and, apart from waiting a week for
it to get here, it was perfect.
I have done very few miles since, so I cannot comment much on the
outcome, but I did not want to leave anything to chance.
Good luck and I hope the OD works well.
Trevor Jordan
74 TR6 CF29281U
At 11:01 PM -0400 21/8/04, David Soknacki wrote:
>I'd sure appreciate some clutch advice!
>
>My 74 TR6 will very shortly be reaching its 100 000th mile, so I decided to
>celebrate by upgrading the transmission to a J-type overdrive. I've been
>given some advice that while the new transmission is being replaced it would
>be a good time to put in a clutch kit. The reasoning is that a portion of
>the clutch labor time will be 'free' since I'll be replacing the
>transmission anyway. But right now there doesn't seem to be anything wrong
>with my clutch other than the pedal needs to pressed all the way down to
>shift, which I'm guessing is due to a bent release fork pin.
>
>So please help
>a) is it a good idea to install a clutch kit without immediately needing to
>do so, or should I just replace what needs replacement?
>b) if I replace the clutch, I'm thinking of the LUK clutch and Koyo throw
>out bearing. Any other recommendations? Does a Borg & Beck function just as
>well and as long or is the LUK/Koyo combination worthwhile?
>c) Moss advertises their release fork pin as a 'high-strength replacement':
>at around $8 to $10 most competitors are at the same price for this item. Is
>anyone's better than another?
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