I followed Jack's advice and took out the crank and replace the
sillycone with the proper shellac soaked felt pieces.
It was quite a job to get the rear main cap off because it was literally
glued in place by the silicone. I first used a drill bit spun in reverse
to dig out the top (bottom really) of the silicone, then soaked the hole
in acetone and used the bit again . and again . to remove enough silicon
to be able to break the main cap loose enough to remove it. I had to use
a maple block and hammer to move the cap off the block.
After I started driving in the felt it became quick apparent that the
driving action was pushing the gasket shellac around the sides of the
cap to block interface both inside and outside the block as well as
sealing off the channel. I think that silicone would have to be under a
lot of pressure to make this bond and would be nearly impossible to get
a good seal.
Thanks for the help (again)!!
PeterK
>I tried the "shoot in silicone" routine and it leaked like a sieve.
At 10:22 PM 7/31/2004, Kentech Motorsports wrote:
>What is the collective wisdom on using silicone instead of shellac
>soaked felt for the rear sealing block on the TR4A engine? My local
>machine shop turned the scroll and drilled the rear main cap on my
>crank for the modern seal (from BPNW). The suggested (and used
>silicone) instead of the felt that I provided on the rear sealing
>block; they said the silicone that they shot in would seal without leak
>and would be superior to pounding in the felt pieces. At this point the
>only thing in the engine is the crank but before I complete assembling
>the rest of the pieces, I though that I would ask for a second opinion.
>So should I take it apart or leave it and continue?
>
>PeterK
uncle jack
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