>Looking at my motor last night and trying to mount it to an engine
> stand and realized that I couldn't access the rear seal bolts if the motor
> was mounted on an engine stand plate. Also, replacing the rear seal would
> be a chore if the motor was on a stand.
> > Angelo Graham
> '55 TR2
-----------------------------------------
Hi, Angelo. I rebuilt my engine this spring with it on a stand. I did the
whole thing on the stand except the flywheel.
When you do the rear seal, you're doing it in conjunction with dropping in
the crankshaft, so your
engine will be upside down on your engine stand, whether you are going with
the conversion
kit on the seal as I did, ...or not. The engine stand itself will have four
arms radiating out from the center, the tips of which are bolted onto the
back of the engine. These tips have 2 to 3 inch extenders welded on, so
there is a gap between the arm and the engine, plenty of room to work. You
may have to wrench it instead of use a socket.
When you've bolted the pan on, you simply rotate the engine in the stand so
it's right side up, you're ready to install the head (assuming you've
already done your camshaft, lifters, pushrods, etc. Directions are pretty
clear in most manuals, except the part about celebrating with a homebrew
when you've done the job well!
Terry Smith
'59 TR3A (Body still off, but the rest mostly back on.)
|