> Question: What are the chances a new real oil seal lower will mate up
> satisfactorily to the upper seal already in place? I'm guessing
> that to install
> both the new upper and new lower seals will require pulling the
> engine to some
> degree. I'm hoping to avoid "some degree" as much as possible.
Bill, I've never tried it, but I think it should be doable as long as you
recognize that the best you can hope for is performance equivalent to the
old seal. Normally, it's pretty much a requirement to remove the engine
entirely, so you can remove the crankshaft and temporarily install the "seal
setting mandrel". (BTW, I have it on good authority that the dimensions
shown in the factory workshop manual, and embodied in the tool from Moss,
are wrong.)
However, the main issue is the clearance between the seal and the scroll on
the crankshaft. I don't see any reason you couldn't install a new seal to
the cap, dry and with no lockwashers, pressed as far towards the crankshaft
as it will go, and with the bolts only slightly more than finger tight; then
lay a strip of shim steel on the scroll of the seal (maybe locate it with a
little grease or gasket cement) and install the rear main cap. The crank
and the shims should push the seal into position, then you can remove the
cap (being careful not to disturb the position of the seal), carefully
tighten all the bolts, then remove them one at a time to add lockwashers
and/or Loctite. Smear a little gasket cement (or Hylomar) on the ends of
the seal when you reinstall it.
Randall
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