> What's to be done with the little cork "T"
> that comes with my oil sump gasket?
There should be two of them, they go on the ends of the aluminum sealing
block that goes between the front main and the sump.
> I'm ready for all measures that can be
> performed with the engine in place.
Get a surface that is as flat as possible (3/4" MDF works reasonably well)
and keep working on the oil pan (sump) sealing surface until it matches
exactly. Pay particular attention around each bolt hole, as that's where it
usually distorts. Inspect for cracks afterwards.
Make sure the surfaces are absolutely clean and dry, and use a high quality
gasket dressing (like Hylomar HPF) on both sides of the gasket. Use new
lockwashers on the pan bolts. Get a torque wrench that will read the value
in the book (don't recall offhand, but it's surprisingly low), insert and
tighten all the bolts finger tight first, then torque them all down in at
least two steps. Resist the urge to over tighten !
On my engine, I added a small flat washer between the clutch slave brace and
the pan, as otherwise the brace was hitting on the edge of the pan.
Make sure that what you think is a leaking pan gasket is not, in fact, oil
running down from somewhere else (like the front cover, front seal, fuel
pump, generator mount, etc.).
Randall
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