Scott,
While you have the oil pan down try fixing the sealing block. I had a
constant drip ( almost a steady stream ) until I broke down and pulled
the sealing block out for repair. You can do this without removing the
front timing cover.
Remove the two recessed screws on the bottom then the three at the front
timing cover. Be careful not to tear the timing cover gasket. If you can
get new wood sealing wedges or use the old ones over if they fit snug.
Once out you'll see the stripped threads in the very soft aluminum
material. The repair part is called a Keensert http://www.keensert.com/
. This is a threaded insert that is much harder than the original
material & once installed is a permanent , leak proof repair. If I
remember correctly I used a 5/16-24 inset. If you need the exact size I
can check and get back to you. I replaced the three on the timing cover
side and the two that hold the oil pan to the block. There are space
restrictions on the outer two bolts on the timing cover but if installed
properly they fit perfectly. Assemble using a good quality silicone
sealant on the wood blocks, small corner gaskets and all around the
block matting surfaces. Be careful not to let excess silicone ooze or
fall into the oil pan as it will clog the oil screen. One out the repair
should take a few hours.
My car has been bone dry for a year now, even through an engine rebuild
and reassembly. It's worth the time. The bottom of my car has never been
so clean.
--
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6
http://www.angelfire.com/ny4/triumph5/
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|