Hi Stu
Are all the pivots / ball joints sound, they won't cause vibration, but they
will allow a slight out of balance to have greater oscillations, therefore
greater vibration.
Also the 15 inch Minilite replicas "Minators" I bought from Moss UK have
flat face wheel nuts like the Stag, not conical nuts, and the nuts are not a
real good fit in the wheel (not Moss' fault) which allows the wheel to run
slightly eccentric setting up a vibration through the whole car very similar
to wheel wobble. I love the look of my wheels, I just wish they located from
the middle, or had conical nuts.
The wheels are definitely balanced correctly as I have been trained to do it
and watched the operatives like a hawk also they have been checked on
another machine at a different shop and came out zero-zero there too. Had a
real hard time convincing the guy to leave the weights on. he kept saying he
had to remove them to re balance them (true) but I only want them checked,
but I have to.....etc
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Graham"
Subject: TR3
> I've posted before, but not often. And have regularly received excellent
> advise from Fred and Randall as well as the list. Thanks to all.
>
> After virtually re-building drag-link including new silent block bushings,
> idler arm, re-balancing and alignment, changing wheels for best up front,
we
> drive smooth then a noticable vibration at 50 MPH, steady and rough to 60
MPH
> then SEEMS to smooth out some. So I am now blocked.
>
> I am considering wire wheel retrofit, but Fred warns that even with 60
spoke
> wheels, this can cause problems down the road. Alternatively the
mini-lite
> replicas from Moss are an option. I would love to stay with the steel
wheels
> and Triumph covers (I have two sets of steel - 8 + spare = 9 total), none
> which I have confidence in at this point) but the vibration really is
> bothersome.
>
> Any suggestions? Can the vibration be coming from elsewhere?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stu Graham
> Brunswick, GA
> TS 57892
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