Hi Carl
I would stay with the original scroll seal, as long as it has not had contact or
wear from the crankshaft. Centering the seal with the mandrel is critical, as
the
annular clearance must be consistant around the circumference. Don't forget to
use gasket sealer on the back of the seal flange. The original seal on my engine
has gone over 180,000 miles with no problems.
The Volvo B18 engine had the same type of seal. I centered one using feeler
gauges and it worked fine, at least until I sold the car.
Cheers
Pete Fullam
CT19207
CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone believe in staying with the original aluminum crankshaft seal on
> TR3-4A's anymore?
> When properly set up aren't they virtually drip free? It's an old design used
> for at least a decade.
> Is it really worth grinding down the crank and retrofitting a new housing for
> a rubber seal?
> Carl
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|