Knut, I'm a firm believer in DOT 5. The _only_ advantage I see to DOT 4 is
that it's cheap!
I use DOT 5 in all my cars, and I've never had a problem that I attribute to
it. Using it has cut my frequency of hydraulic problems dramatically, for
example I converted a 1980 Chevy to DOT 5 at the first sign of problems
(leaking caliper), and never had another. It went to the scrap yard last
year, over 250,000 miles and still the original seals on 3 wheels.
When bleeding, the only precautions I observe are to wait a bit after adding
fluid to the MC (take a break, have a cold one, etc.) and of course to be
sure not to let the reservoir run low while bleeding. IMO it's otherwise no
harder to bleed than DOT 4 (and even if it was, not having to bleed every
couple years would make it worth it).
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly
et al
> -----Original Message-----
>
> So... After a complete rebuild of my Spitfire the time has come to put in
> some new break fluid.... But what to use? Have been following the previous
> discussions on several lists but are still very confused about
> what to use?
> Dot 5 for no-paint-attack and no-water-absorbtion (expensive and hard to
> bleed?). Dot 4 or 5.1 for better breaking??? (inexpensive and readilly
> available). What should I use? Any recommendations?
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