> I'm new to the list, though I've been lurking for about a week
> now. Looking
> forward to adding what I can to the mix.
Welcome to the list, Bill!
> 1. What's the best way to remove and replace the silent bloc pins
> from the
> tie rod in the steering linkage? Can this be done with the
> linkage in place?
It can, but IMO it's easier to remove the linkage and do it on the bench.
Once you've got the silentblocs loose from the Pitman and idler arms, you
only need remove the tie rod ends from the steering levers to pull the
center link out. Good time to replace the tie rods ends if they need it, or
the gaiters if they don't.
> 2. Can the oil seal and bush in the steering box be replaced
> without removing the box?
It would sure be tough! At the very least you'll need a special Pitman arm
puller to get into the rather tight quarters. At least on a car with a
split steering column, IMO it's easier to remove the box.
> 3. What's the best way to check the end float in the steering
> box, and can it
> be done with the box in place?
After doing it for many years in the car, I believe it's best done on the
bench. I used a cheap dial indicator ($25 from Enco) to check the end float
with the peg loose, and then tightened the peg until I could just barely
feel the slightest resistance as I turned the box. My worm turned out to be
so worn that there were two tight spots on either side of center, instead of
a single one in the center. You'll need to have the Pitman arm disconnected
to feel the resistance. Don't forget to replace the peg first.
Note that it is possible to remove the steering box on a split-column car
without removing the front apron; the directions in the book are for early
solid-column cars.
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver
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