> Good question,currently I am using two aluminum shelf extrusions,
> and center
> head drilled four aluminum gutter nails hung on some good wax thread.
> To keep from using the sidewall of the tire, which might give a less
> accurate projection, I strap the extrusions on the wheel with
> equal spacers
> between the rim and extrusion(rail), then hang the center drilled nails
> like four plumb bobs off the center of the rails and measure off
> the Floor.
> I am pleased with the results and am curious if other folks go to such
> trouble in an effort to keep others from wrenching on your beloved auto.
I use what I consider to be an easier method. A length of 1x2 lumber, 8'
long (the excess forms a handle), with two rectangles of 'masonite' screwed
to it in strategic locations, such that with the 1x2 laying on the floor,
the masonite reaches up to wheel centerline height. Jack the car up, spin
the front wheels by hand and use a scribe to mark the approximate center of
the tire while it's spinning. Set the car back down on the (level) floor,
bounce it a few times to settle the suspension, then slide the 1x2
underneath and rotate it so the edge of the masonite is behind the front
tires and at the center line. Use a pencil to transfer the scribed line
from the tires to the masonite. Then move it to the front of the tires, and
measure the toe-in/out directly.
I check camber with a carpenter's square and a pair of 6" rules clamped to
it, so they contact the rim at the bead height (not at the lower/outermost
edge). For my LBCs this is just a cross-check, I don't have adjustable
camber (yet), but some of my other cars have camber adjustments.
Randall
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