I quite agree with Randall, (no surprise)
but will add three points:
I glue an old set of figure 8 gaskets in place, in the standard location, to
protect that surface, as I also use stones with my die grinder. Do use
breathing protection!
Do remove the oil galley end plugs and clean the internal oil passageways IF
you have replacement plugs; if not, clean it through the other holes and
flush, flush, flush.
This method also saves the cam bearings, which may be tighter than new "G"
brand ones.
Hardy Prentice, TR3 ARRC winner and TR3 person since 61
-------------------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 11/29/2002 2:34:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
owner-triumphs@autox.team.net writes:
> Bill, IMO there's no need to "hot tank" the block. With the liners out, all
> the water passages in the block are readily accessible. Plus, for whatever
> reason, several people have had trouble with paint adhesion; and this is a
> particularly unpleasant place to have that problem.
>
> However, I agree it's a good idea to pull the liners out and clean out any
> rust/scale that's present. I used a wire brush in a die grinder for most
> of
> mine, and touched up the places the die grinder wouldn't reach with a
> "steel
> toothbrush". You could even use Naval Jelly if you want, but IMO these
> surfaces aren't all that critical.
>
> Randall
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