We just went through this on a ground-up restoration of a TR4. We had the
same experience that another leading resto shop had -- that with new TR4
door seals, it is nearly impossible to get the doors to close nicely. The
problem is the lack of compressibility of the seals in three places -- the
lower rear, the lower front, and the pinch point between the top front
corner of the door and the body immediately below the windshield frame.
Using the new seals, you have to have a gorilla as a passenger, just to
shut the doors (no, dear, I'm not talking about you).
We did not try the TRF seals. Maybe they fix this problem. What we did do
was use the TR6 seal, which is a fuzzy channel plus a rubber tube section,
much more compressible. When we did this, it did not seal against the metal
surface at the lower rear corner, so we used an additional seal around that
corner against the metal instead of the upholstery.
If you take this approach, you do not need to replace the rinky-dink little
metal channel.
At 03:46 PM 10/29/02 -0500, Ben and Pam Zwissler wrote:
>I'm about to repaint my TR4A body tub and have removed the channels for
>mounting the outer door seals. The TRF catalog and others recommend the
>one-piece TR6 "fuzzy door seal" for the TR4A at least in part because then you
>don't need the channel to mount the "outer" seal.
>
>My question is, how does the one-piece seal work around the triangular plate
>at the bottom of the "B" pillar? The channel went around the bottom of the
>pillar (two short sides of the triangle), while the flange that the one-piece
>seal attaches to goes across the "hypotenuse/long side" of the triangle.
>
>If I'm going to reattach the channel, I need to do it before I paint. I'm
>looking for people's experience fitting the one-piece seal to the TR4A and
>whether they were happy with it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ben Zwissler
>bzwissler1@insightbb.com
>Columbus, IN
>66 TR4A IRS OD
>80 TR8
>
uncle jack
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