Brian, it depends a little on how much you do have. Set the battery in
place, run a ground strap, starter cables from the battery to the solenoid
and from the solenoid to the starter. Connect the coil to the distributor
as usual, and run a temporary wire from the battery to the coil. That's
enough to make it run, you can use the push button on the solenoid to crank
it, and pull off the temporary wire from the battery to the coil to shut it
off.
The ground strap can run to the original location on the body, if you have
the matching strap at the LH motor mount. If not, you'll need a longer
ground cable to run to a convenient bolt on the engine, preferably not one
of the rocker cover studs. I have used a manifold stud in a pinch.
If you do want a starter switch (or have one of the replacement solenoids
without the button), Harbor Freight sells a cheap clip-on remote starter
switch for about $5. I like to use it when setting valves, as it makes it
easier to 'bump' the engine over a little bit at a time. Connect it from
the small terminal on the solenoid to the hot terminal on either the
solenoid or the battery.
Randall
> I would like to test run my TR3 but I do not have a funtional
> wiring harness yet. Is there a simple way to wire up the engine
> and starter to a generic starter switch for a test run. (I'm
> sure Dan Masters could whip one out in about 2 seconds). I was
> thinking about the battery, sloiniod, starter loop and the
> ignition loop. Thanks in advance.
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