Hunh. A two bit resistor. What an elegant solution. Guess I shoulda
asked the list before I got that second pulley.
:^)
But why does it work? I don't understand why increasing the resistance
across the 'charge light' circuit makes it kick in sooner.
Right after start up, there's enormous demand for juice, as the battery
has just shot the wad starting the car. I didn't know that the charge
light circuit had anything to do with when the regulator engaged.
Can someone explain please?
Clueless in Santa Barbara...
Thanks!
-jeffrey
On Wed, 24 Apr 2002, john donnelly wrote:
> I took Randall's que on this and it works great. I went to Radioshack and
> bought a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor (came two per package), and wired it in
> at the fuse box using solder and shrink tubing. The red light is a little
> dimmer, but who cares. When the revs drop to about 500 the light comes on,
> any higher it goes out and the ammeter shows it's charging.
>
> FYI, I bought another pulley from Moss and had my machine shop drill it
> out. $15 for the pulley, $15 for labor. Remember to keep the generator, or
> donate it to someone who needs it.
>
> John in San Diego
> '67 TR4A
>
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:08 PM, Randall Young
> [SMTP:ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM] wrote:
> > > Pros: Cheap, semi-original looking, and you keep your wide belt.
> > > Cons: The stock generator pully is somewhat large comparatively, and it
> > > makes the alternator a little under-driven. I found my alternator
> didn't
> > > 'kick-in' until I reved the motor above 1300-1500 RPM
> >
> > I don't know if this would work for all alternators, but on mine I pretty
> > much solved this problem by adding a resistor across the 'ignition' lamp
> on
> > the dash. If memory serves, it was 4 ohms, 5 watts (mostly because
> that's
> > what I had in the parts bin). The resistor also ensures that the
> alternator
> > will continue to work even if the bulb burns out. With the resistor and
> an
> > original pulley, my Ford alternator 'kicks in' as soon as the engine
> fires,
> > and will put out enough at idle to keep up with either the Xenon
> headlamps,
> > or the radiator fan (but not both). I've noted that my 1980 Chevy also
> had
> > such a resistor built into the wiring harness.
> >
> > Randall
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
|